Croquembouche (Part 2), Sugar Syrup

Chef Gert Looking Over His Croquembouche

If my ferocious whinging has put the fear of the Croq in you, I apologize for that was not my intent. Sure molten caramel burns like lava and when set cuts like glass, but it had me cussing in the kitchen little more than usual, and with my creme pat properly cooked and choux baked right with their trademark hollow interior, piping the profiteroles was a breeze too.

Truth is, it depresses me to know this particular creation I will so lovingly give life to is sadly ephemeral, for it stands no chance against the elements. Creme pat is highly perishable, left more than 4 hours at room temperature, it will go bad and KILL YOU, while the heat and humidity melts the caramel coating into a sticky mess and renders the glue holding the structure in place soft and unstable. Refrigeration? A double-edged sword, it may keep the creme pat from going off but the moisture-rich environment will only deteriorate the caramel with equal efficiency.

Yet as my Croq came to being, I started to appreciate why there are people (including friends of ours) who continue to request for this bastion of French tradition to mark their special day: a majestic tower of profiteroles each covered in a sheen of golden caramel, punctuated sparingly with intricate marzipan roses, wrapped in a blanket of delicate spun sugar that glistens like morning dew, all resting on a decadently edible platform of golden nougatine to match this proud symbol of grandeur and dramatic flair. Indeed there can be no cake more fitting of a celebration than the Croq.

Coating With Caramel, Filling With Creme Patisserie

Building The Cone, Demolding

The coated and filled roles are dipped in caramel to adhere them in place on a cardboard cone. Once the caramel hardens and sets the roles in place, the cone is carefully coaxed out so as not to damage the structure, which is then placed in the center of the nougatine stand.

Intricate Icing Sugar Lacework

Marzipan flowers are a popular decorative feature while icing sugar is piped on for a splash of white against gold, the classic matrimonial colors. Just another feature which makes this is a perennial wedding favorite.

Marzipan Oinks

Pour Claire & Ross

Yes, I built my grand centerpiece into the container for easy packing and transportation, as I needed it to survive the journey home and last till tomorrow when we have friends over for a barbie. I was quite taken aback when I saw my finished work, it didn't turn out too bad at all! I left the cone in to keep the profiteroles in place, as I did not cement them with as much caramel as Chef did; they held onto the roles so tightly it was impossible to pry them off without breaking.

So I may not be able to prevent the eventually and all-too-soon demise of my Croq, but it was a good experience making it and I finished with a great deal of pride and satisfaction.

Marzipan Roses

Croquembouche (Part 1), Choux Pastry, Nougatine, Creme Patisserie, Religieux

Chef's Religieux

This was not an enjoyable class. "It's gonna be fun, guys!" chirps a delusional Chef Gert. Sure, if you count caramel stab wounds and 3rd degree sugar-burns as "fun". But behind the trauma lies an important lesson: in addition to building character and a new layer of skin, Croquembouche an impressive but demanding dessert all pastry chefs should have in their repertoire, preparing them for the long, intensive hours in store whenever someone exclaims "Oh yes! We would lurve a Croquembouche on our wedding day!"

Choux Pastry & Creme Patisserie

We've been through this before, to make profiteroles you will need: a million choux puffs and 2 gallons of creme patisserie (you'll see why soon enough) to be put together tomorrow. You can fill a couple of choux with cream, placed one atop the other and piped more cream around to make Religieux. But for today we had to build the nougatine base for the Croquembouche.

Nougatine In The Making

Nougatine is a sweet almond brittle made by coating toasted almond in caramel with a pat of butter for shine. This is good enough to be eaten on its own, as they most often are, so rest assured any leftovers you may have will not be going to waste.

Constructing Nougatine Base

The little pat of butter is also helpful in extracting the sticky mix from the pot and rolling it out. Nougatine is hot, guys: hovering over as I was vigorously rolling it out, I could feel the heat emitting onto my face as the steam burned my throat and lungs with every breath I took in. All this I suffer in the name of good dessert.

Cut out a circular disc and a long strip to go around and under it. Work quickly while the nougatine is still hot and malleable, but try as you may not to burn your fingers (too much).

 

Finishing Touches...Are Just The Beginning

Next small triangles were cut and laid on a curved surface (wine bottle works well) to curl up as they harden, then attached to the base with more caramel. I caution extra care and focus at this step, or you'll risk burning your fingers off faster than you can scream Merde!

Elaborate Croquembouche Base

Pizza, Calzone, Chicken & Mushroom Pide

Chef Luigi's Italian Feast Magnifico!

Today we produced Italy's most famous export, and for struggling students and single guys everywhere, what represents 90% of their diet: La Pizza. Done and done well, this everyday favourite can easily be transformed from junk food to gourmet extravagance in mere minutes.

Speaking of pizza, I was watching an episode of Alton Brown's Good Eats this morning and of all days and all things he could have been demonstrating, he was making pizza! Not just any pizza, but the thin crust I so love. It's a sign: I'm destined to eat well tonight.

Mise En Place For Sauce & Topping

For the all-important red sauce we sauteed blanched tomatoes, onions and tomato paste in olive oil. I took the liberty to spice things up a bit by adding dried oregano and rosemary and a good pinch of chilli powder to the mix, all of which I cooked down until well and truly disintegrated, as it was smooth sauce I was after, not chunky salsa. 

Mornay Sauce For Pide

Just as we did for the Vol Au Vents, we cooked flour and butter to form a roux before adding milk to combine. Last but certainly not least we mixed in cheddar cheese, and you have yourself a rich and creamy Mornay sauce.

Into the mornay goes sauteed chicken and mushroom, mixed well to coat and set aside while we contemplate the bread base.

Customary Italian Flair

Stuffed Crust, Plain & Plentiful

We made focaccia for the base, and I cannot think of any better. I asked for a cheese-stuffed crust pizza which Chef Luigi kindly obliged. He then went on to make pizza as they should be done: meat lovers' on one (yum) and vegetarian on the other (hum-drum).

Now we had some amazing produce for our toppings: bocconcini (Yum-o!), pepperoni, chorizo, baby spinach, fresh basil...as the Americans have showed us through great enterprising bodies such as Pizza Hut and Dominos, the sky's the limit. Not to be taken in the literal sense, you do not, I repeat, do not pile on the toppings sky high like you would at an all-you-can-eat buffet. Tempting as it may be, the load will not cook through in the oven, leaving you with cold and raw toppings and a miserably soggy base. So exercise some restraints here, folks.

Building A Pide

Pide is the Turkish take on the older Middle Eastern pita. The latter a slightly leavened wheat bread dry and malleable with a pocket to fill with, while the former is softer, chewier and pocket less, hence the need to top the top, not unlike a pizza, only with the edges crimped in to keep the toppings from spilling out of the small holding area.

We filled ours with the chicken-mushroom-mornay mix, folded up the sides, tucked in the ends and finished with a good drizzle of olive oil and sesame seeds. More grated cheese and/or parsley to finish if you wish before baking.

Creamy, Voluptuous Bocconcini

Chicken & Mushroom Pide, Calzone

We also made some calzones, built like a pizza, folded in half to seal, the result resembling a giant curry puff or the Philippine empanadas.

Now allow me a moment to demystify a romantic notion for you. Calzone does not mean "crescent" or "half moon" in Italian. Far from its misleading intention, it really means "trousers". Go figure.

My-ma Mia Pizza

What a stunning pizza. :p I stretched the dough as far as it would go for a thin crust base and a large surface area to accommodate more toppings (remember folks, you want more toppings but cannot pile them up high, so you gotta think outta the box) and coz I wanted a cheesy edge but a flat terrain, I sprinkled grated cheddar all around the outside for a crisp finish. 

Excess...Is Always Best

Did the same for my calzone, stretched it out thinner that Chef's to fill more filling in. As for the pide, well...probably went a tad overboard there, but I was going for rustic, you understand. Omitted the parsley (the smell puts me off) and went for an onslaught of sesame seeds and cheese. The result,  overflowing with goodness. 

Bon Appetit!